Six of Spain’s finest wines you’ve (probably) never heard of

The windswept green mountains of the Basque region on Spain’s north Atlantic coastline feel light years away from the country’s stereotypical image of sangria, sherry and sun. Here they make a crisp, tangy white wine called txakoli, which has a slight spritz and in summer goes superbly well with a chilled bowl of gazpacho.
For the adventurous wine lover looking beyond oaky riojas and cut-price cavas, these niche offerings from frequently overlooked regions are gaining momentum. Spain is a vinous powerhouse with more land under vine than any other country and some 600 grape varieties, and we’re seeing more quirky, unfamiliar styles on our high street. Take M&S’s little-known verdil from Valencia (see right) or Waitrose’s Catalonian organic garnatxa blanca (2023 Herencia Altes Benufet, £16.99). The latter combines taut acidity with a nutty finish. To the west, the Somontano region has Burgundy-style whites and fruity reds, while over in Rueda the local verdejo grape produces flavourful, peachy whites. Try Aldi’s 2023 Baron Amarillo Rueda Verdejo (£5.99) or the fresh, citrussy Beronia Rueda Verdejo from Waitrose (£7.99, reduced from £10.99).
It’s not just Spanish whites that are gaining ground. Up in the northwest, the remote region of Bierzo has found a new lease of life under a clutch of illustrious winemakers, including Álvaro Palacios, who are producing excellent reds from the mencia grape. They can take on a smoky, earthy character and pair beautifully with white meat and hard cheese. Here are more of the Spanish wines I am most excited about.
2023 Old Vine Garnacha (14%)Co-op, £6.75Garnacha reigns in the northeast Aragon region, producing intense, potent reds. This is rich and smooth, with cherry and floral flavour.
2023 M&S Found Organic Verdil (12%)M&S, £9Grown on vines at high altitude, the verdil grape delivers lemon zest and dried fruit, giving way to a bracing, pithy finish.
2022 Paso-Primero Blanco Somontano (13.5%)Tanners, £11.95Former Tanners staff Thomas and Emma Holt have crafted a vibrant white with lovely citrus and tropical fruit.
2023 Rezabal Txacoli Getariako Txakolina (11%)The Wine Society, £12.50Rather like a vinho verde, this light, lively white has a gentle spritz and plenty of appley freshness.
2022 CVNE Maruxa Mencia Valdeorras (14%)Majestic, £12.99A characterful mencia brimming with black fruit and floral aromas, this has inviting smokiness and juicy acidity.
2020 Saint Jacques Ultreia Bierzo (13.5%) Justerini & Brooks, £15Here’s a wine of real class from the top maker Raúl Pérez, with peppery dark fruit and a long, silky finish.
2021 Pedra do Cribo Albariño Rias Baixas (12.5%)£18.99This is a sensational albariño from the “Flying Scotsman” Norrel Robertson. Floral hints meld with a steely tang and dry complexity.